Live to Surf --- Surf to Live

STAY HEALTHY -- KEEP SURFING..... ..... As an ocean inspired artist, who surfs most of the year in cold and sometimes dangerous waters, I have evolved a variation on the 70's era "live to surf -- surf to live" mantra. Unfulfilled desire and will power alone is no longer sufficient motivation, and thus my variation on the 70's theme:

I MAKE SURF ART BECAUSE I SURF.
I SURF BECAUSE I MAKE SURF ART.

The net result is greater health and fitness, and higher performance surfing. It's my personal version of "live to surf -- surf to live."
We all know that after 60, the more often you surf, the greater the rewards. If you are still surfing in your 60's (or beyond) you probably have your own system for making regular water time a priority. KEEP SURFING !!!

Jody and Mar at Punta Burros

Jody and Mar at Punta Burros
Jody and Mar sliding in their sixties

kookery transcends irony

Elders are just well dressed, well behaved old people whose skill-set is being re-calibrated by time. In the beach-kitchen (bitchin!) skills improve with time and experience. By the time we hit sixty, most of us either like to cook or not.
But health and fitness imperatives may pull us into the kitchen without requiring the study of gourmet kookery. That is bitchin too!
And a new interest in food, diet, and cooking might also be inspired by surf travel.
We will cook for two, and we will cook for twenty-two!! We will explore some senior moments in the kitchen, and share our experiences with you, if we can remember them.
Most of us who still chase waves as a priority in life are aware that there is some performance loss with aging, and we are keen to preserve and enhance our carefully nurtured abilities.
Kookery can help with that. as the best training table for a mature athlete is the one you lay yourself.
Also, kookery can be part of a lifestyle that introduces you to new people and potential surf partners or even life partners. Two solid interests in common (surfing and cooking) is a pretty healthy basis for shared enjoyment.
Elders we can be, but we have to STYLE our way there (to illuminate the path for those who come after). Surfers like to party, and beach-kitchen bitchin party food from someone who knows their kookery will get you more re-invites than ANY story you ever told. Elder status awaits us all, so take care of yourself!!

Tuesday, April 2, 2013

Encouraging Waves For Frequent Fun

Access to encouraging waves is paramount for senior surfers. Not only the waves, but the whole scenario -- with accommodating, if not welcoming locals. Be one (a regular) and you'll find acceptance quickly. Who is a "real surfer", and what is "real surfing?" For purposes of elder-kookery, we'll say the act of catching and riding a breaking ocean wave for the fun of it constitutes "surfing." And if that act is aided by a surfboard, bodyboard, surf mat, or swim fins, then it is indeed "real surfing," and should be repeated regularly for best results.

Elder-kookery balks at including the new "sport" of stand-up paddling in the realm of "real surfing" (we'll call it SUPing-- not supping, which we highly recommend), and encourages those inclined toward this activity to avoid wave zones traditionally used by surfers. How political it has all become, as kayakers, SUP'ers, and waveskiers all want a wave of their own, or to share yours. Some of these watercraft are downright hazards in the impact zone. Helmets, anyone?

Some challenging and dangerous waves are best appreciated from the beach. Even familiar, user-friendly beaches have their less-encouraging moods. Knowing when conditions are beyond your abilities is part of your elder status. It's cool to watch and wait for more suitable conditions. If fun and frequency are your priority, injury should be avoided. Caution is the greater part of valor.You probably already have ready access to encouraging waves, or you travel to them for surf vacations. Stay healthy, keep surfing!!!
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